Xinhua News Agency, Buenos Aires, October 8th, climb! Junior! — The new Olympic project journey of Chinese rock climbing teenagers
Xinhua News Agency reporter Zhao Yan Zheng Zhi
steep walls, several hard-to-catch stones, however, athletes can use their own strength and skills to show dance-like beauty. With competitive rock climbing becoming the official competition of the Tokyo Olympic Games, rock climbing has also been added to the Jakarta Asian Games and the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires. The young Chinese rock climbing team ushered in the training time at the Youth Olympic Games.
The rock climbing site of the Youth Olympic Games is located in the city park competition area in the city center, attracting many spectators early in the morning. On the 8th, the men’s rock climbing all-round preliminary competition was held. Cai Luyuan, the leader of the Chinese team, introduced that the mode of the Youth Olympic Games was the same as that of the Tokyo Olympic Games, and the all-round competition also included speed, there are three small items of climbing Stone and difficulty, and the players with the least scores after the ranking of the three final scores are multiplied win, so the players who win the championship alone are very dominant.
Chinese team players Pan Yufei and Huang Diyan both made some mistakes in the preliminary match, but Pan Yufei entered the final with the sixth place.
Cai Luyuan said that both players came here through the qualifier last year. Originally, both of them had a chance to enter the final, today, Pan Yufei made two mistakes in the speed competition, ranking only 19th. Fortunately, the latter two played normally and got the last place to enter the final; however, Huang Di’s muscle was pulled in the speed competition, causing old injuries. It was difficult to finish those who needed shoulder strength behind the four climbing tracks of the Stone-hugging project. He finally ranked ninth, which was very regretful.
Cai Luyuan said that rock climbing is a sport with high requirements for athletes. First of all, the physical function must reach a certain level, secondly, in the key rounds, it mainly tests the players’ ability to analyze lines and interpret lines. “This is like the College Entrance Examination. No one knows what the final examination questions look like. It only takes about 30 seconds to” read the questions “after entering the stadium ‘, athletes should find the simplest or most correct method in the shortest time, which is also the most difficult in rock climbing.”
There are differences between the three small events of the all-round rock climbing final and the preliminary match. In the final, the speed race will become a two-person confrontation, while the rock climbing and difficult track will be adjusted, athletes cannot know the route in advance.
Pan Yufei told reporters that every time he entered the site, he must first observe the route. Now he has seen a stone of a certain shape, and he will come up with a climbing route in his mind.
Pan Yufei has been involved in rock climbing for 10 years. He played with friends at the earliest. When he was a teenager, he climbed every weekend, after participating in a domestic competition, he entered the national team. He has always maintained his love for this sport and has never felt that training is very hard and tired. “Because every climb is a challenge to yourself, and every climb is a conversation with yourself.” He said.
Cai Luyuan said that the 18-year-old Pan Yufei and the 17-year-old Huang Diyan were both preparing for the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games. At present, the strong players in our country are all at this age, plus some experienced veterans. He said: “From the perspective of comprehensive strength, the rock climbing teams are mainly concentrated in Japan in Europe and Asia. China’s level is in the middle and upper reaches. Our goal is to compete for the tickets for the 2020 Olympic Games first.”
With the development of rock climbing in China, a large number of teenagers have participated in this sport in the last two years, especially at present, there are many teenagers under 14 years old. Cai Luyuan believes that although these teenagers are still too young to participate in the competition by 2020, they will be an immeasurable force in the future.